Sungmin and GOTS
Our partner mill, Sungmin Textiles, first had a plan to go with Better Cotton Initiatives (BCI) but changed the direction to Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) as we believe they follow true sustainable measures. At the moment, Sungmin is preparing for an audit by GOTS expected to be held mid-2021.
As of lately, there have been questions regarding the true sustainable nature of Better Cotton Initiatives. Recent events are believed to have initiated said questions. This includes the allegations of forced labor and other human rights abuses in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) of China. According to BCI they have “taken the decision to cease all field-level activities in the region effective immediately– including capacity building and data monitoring and reporting”. Unfortunately, BCI does not regularly inspect all factories and certify strict social criteria the same way GOTS does. With that being said, it is more likely that other regions that work with BCI are also not following BCI’s standards.
Similarly, GOTS acquires data on energy and water consumption using “GOTS Monitor”. It also provides realistic factory-specific goals using said data. These targets are set-up and monitored to reduce the factories water and energy consumption. On the other hand, factories under BCI are only encouraged to collectively aim towards sustainable use of water. BCI farmers are trained in water stewardship but they are not closely monitored. Additionally, BCI farmers are trained to minimize the negative effects of fertilizers and pesticides. However, hazardous pesticides are not banned as they are under GOTS. This ban prohibits the use of chemicals commonly used in textile processing that can cause birth defects, cancer and other serious illnesses. Not only may the use of these chemicals harm the growers, but the surrounding ecosystem as well.
Overall, GOTS strives to be organic while improving the entire chain and certifying the product at every stage of production. According to BCI, BCI “exists to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future”. With two organizations aiming for similar goals— but one less reliable as being truly sustainable— Sungmin Textiles has shifted attention to GOTS.
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